Scuba Diving: Phi Phi Island

We stayed at Phi Phi Village for five days, and it was not nearly enough time! Everything from the room, pool, beach, and secret restaurants was incredible.  As I mentioned, we were there during the rainy season. Somehow, we beat the rain at its own game by scheduling around it.  We had a beautiful day the first morning, so we decided to stay local and go to the beach and pool while sipping pina coladas out of coconuts all day. Since we didn't have any activities that day, we had plenty of energy to make it up to the mountaintop for dinner and finish the night off with a walk out onto the wet sand as the tide receded several hundred yards out to sea.

Our most intuitive planning happened when we realized the day was going to be overcast and raining two days after we arrived. How to avoid that while on an island? Go under the waves—i.e., dive! Not only did this work out perfectly because it didn't matter if it was rainy when we were under the ocean (it can dilute visibility, but we didn't have that effect here), but there was another unexpected benefit. 

We were alone. All alone. Just us, the boat captain and guide.

I have been out on dozens of these tour boats all over the Caribbean and Mediterranean. It’s typical to see a double-decker boat pull up and every seat be filled with a tourist and a huge beach bag.  Well, the boat was the same; a double-decker was there to pick us up that morning, but we were the only ones to board. So we ended up diving into one of the most incredible soft coral reefs in the world with our own personal guide and no one else to worry about.

So, while we did not get to explore the islands to their full extent due to rain and season, we had the most incredible dives of our lives.  Essentially, if you have seen anything on dives in the Caribbean, imagine it is 15 times bigger.  I was swimming past sea fans the size of tractor tires and over tube corals as tall as me.  I was so overwhelmed by the size of the different corals that I had seen for years and years, but sadly, at less than half the size, I saw them here.  The health of the coral reefs here is far from perfect, but when compared to those in the Caribbean, they seem to be from another planet.  

Unlike the typical Caribbean experience, here you dive alongside 

walls of coral that seem to go on forever. One of our dive locations was exactly like this. 

Beyond size, the soft coral was the most spectacular part of the coral landscapes. The highlighter green and purple corals popping out of every crevice and flourishing to enormous sizes, like the hard corals, were like seeing God’s watercolor masterpiece.  Often I had hovered over small outstretched arms of soft coral moving with the currents around Aruba, Granada,  and the Turks and Caicos to name a few of my favorites, but here they were hovering over and next to me. Bright yellows, oranges, and colors you see nowhere else in the natural world cover every inch of stone wall and rock. Diving here was truly the most spectacular natural scene I have ever witnessed.  

Unfortunately, no under-water camera at the time, but here is a 

few that looked like what we saw! 

Saw lots of these guys! But no whale sharks, unfortunately. 

That morning I struggled out of bed after a wake-up call, and pulled George along with me. We put on our swimsuits and staged out of our hut and down to the beach, where breakfast was served.  We were confused by the wait staff still working on place settings and the sun not being up. We quickly realized we had taken the wake-up call’s accuracy too lightly and had gotten to breakfast at six am instead of seven am. It was worth it for the sunrise, but it goes without saying after a full day of diving, we retreated into our little hut and didn't come out until the next morning. 

 

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Phi Phi Island Village - Bad Weather ~ Spa Day

Three nights in Bangkok feels like a week of travel anywhere else. The constant sounds of buzzing cars and rickshaws against the overload of smells coming from every inch of the street, wide enough for both vehicles and makeshift food courts, is enough to send your senses into a comma. After three days of non-stop temple tours and long winding walks through allies packed with people and unidentified dried meat, the beach was seductively calling our names.  

 When I promoted my “top honeymoon destinations” to George, the Phi Phi Islands were clearly given bonus points to boost Thailand’s score. Pictures and postcards of long boats pulled up onto deserted white beaches lined by turquoise bays and engulfed by limestone cliffs portray the ideal honeymoon destination—I thought, and clearly, George agreed (he got to make the final choice).

After landing in Phuket, we were brought aboard a lovely, large speed boat.  The sky was somewhat dark and cloudy, with patches of sun highlighting the actual electric blue color of the water as we made our way to Phi Phi Island Village. It was Friday, May 25th, and depending on what resource you refer to, the beginning of Thailand’s primary monsoon season had started and was well underway. Now, you might wonder, “How could they plan a trip to the world’s most beautiful beaches during the rainy season?” But it could not have been better! Our island experience was certainly dominated by the weather – for better and for worse – but primarily for better (much more to come).

 As soon as we stepped off the boat and onto Phi Phi Village, we (me dragging George along) made a beeline to the spa. I am not much of a souvenir person or shopper for that matter, but I had made it clear I intended to get a Thai massage, and I wasted no time.  We didn’t even change or go to our rooms. With the cloud cover, the beach was out, and a massage sounded like the perfect way to spend the rest of the day. Walking up the mountain path and into the spa lounge, the sweet lady convinced George to do a couples massage (he had never had one before this trip). We headed up to our little jungle bungalow and found a man and woman waiting for us when we opened the door.  I immediately think, “oh my gosh, George is going to freak out having a male masseuse!” I instantly turned away, fearing being completely awkward when George looked to me for help, and simply out of my mind, trying not to laugh.  

Here in the U.S., you are usually asked to lie down and then put the towel over you when you are done, and the masseuse will come back into the room, not here! Let’s just say there was a cultural difference between “personal space” and “privacy.” It was an amazing experience, but I still can’t contain my laughter when George talks about looking over at me for “a queue of what to do” and me being shamelessly already on the table looking away.  I couldn't relax several times because I was trying so hard not to laugh at what must have been running through George’s mind! I won’t go into detail, but numerous unexpected moments required the mentality we committed to at the beginning of the trip, “say yes to things you would normally say no to.”  Without question, you must indulge in a Thai massage when in Thailand, but be prepared for your expectations to be mottled by the shock of cultural divergence.  

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Tallest Pagoda in Thailand & Thai Village Culture Show

After our morning of negotiating at the floating markets, we headed to one of Thailand’s main royal temples, Ratchaworaviharn, which includes Wat Phra Pathom Chedi. Both titles, “tallest pagoda in the world” and “tallest pagoda in Thailand,” are used to describe it, and we heard both in Thailand. I’m not sure it’s the largest in the world, but it is surely in the top tier and quite a site to see! Even more fascinating is its history, which goes back more than 2000 years. India’s Emperor, during the 3^rd Century, sent out missionaries to spread Buddhism to the east. The Chedi you see today is built over ancient relics, including carved altars and stone wheels of law, predating 143 B.C. Scaling upwards, at 417 feet, it will be one of the most impressive stupas you will see on any of your travels.

Ratchaworaviharn

The day was starting to wear on us, and at the perfect time, we reached the Rose Gardens in Nakhon Pathom. As usual, lunch was served via buffet… oh the horror. “By the time we get to the beach, I am not going to fit into my swimsuit,” I frequently shouted. Literally, it seemed like every meal was served buffet style or our order consisted of four overflowing dishes. The food is so incredible. However, there is no room for argument; you just have to let your belt out. Comprised of curries, salads, and fish, this spread was no different, and I ended up eating enough for two people. The view of the small lake and surrounding garden was the perfect place to pause after a rushed and busy morning. After a quick walk around the orchid gardens, overflowing with incredible colors and combinations, we went down to the elephant show.

Glad I picked up this book before the trip!

Now, I had been very weary of this trip and all the possible animal situations we would see that would compromise my position on animal rights. However, I intended to learn about popular places to bring attention to any abuse I saw, including restaurants and entertainment shows. This was the first place where my radar started to go off. Thankfully, it appeared to be a false alarm. The elephants are paraded around, demonstrating how they are used in logging throughout South East Asia. Side note: Logging elephants eliminates the need for forest clearing, which is required for heavy machinery and trucks to access the logs typically needed in dense jungles. Yet, because elephants can maneuver through the forest and deliver logs to transportation without roads, forest damage is minimal. I have seen documentaries showcasing operations that treat the animals well and save thousands of acres of forest. Of course, that is an ideal situation, but it is likely not the usual one.

The show is slow-passed, and the elephants do not look like it’s difficult for them to lift and push around these logs. From what we saw, the elephants were happy and not being abused during the hours we were there. The Thai Village Cultural Show that follows is much more than we expected and really fun! Especially the end when you see their version of jumping ropes… with bamboo. This show is an impressive composition of well-preformed snapshots of Thai history and the many unique cultural practices that make Thailand so mysterious. Even the imitation Muay Thai boxing spectacle is entertaining and gives a good idea of a real match if you cannot make it to an authentic one. 

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Damnoen Saduak Floating Market: Thailand

Our first day outside of Bangkok was welcomed, as we were both anxious to see the countryside. Getting just beyond the sprawling skyscrapers, you quickly feel like you are seeing the real side of rural Thailand. Our first destination was the floating market, followed by an afternoon at the Rose Gardens. 

Barely outside Bangkok's traffic jams, it becomes apparent that the majority of Thai people are subsistence farmers, and even more so, they have a small plot system. Even though Thailand is accredited for its enormous progress and development, the vast majority of its people are rural, and the country is still characterized as an agricultural society.

One of the better examples of this type of livelihood was along the polluted waterways we maneuvered through to reach the floating markets. Scattered along the banks, between decaying dwellings, were small plots of coconut farmers working beside ten-foot-tall mounds of hollowed-out coconut husks.

The water would be repulsive to most Westerners, as would the living conditions along these remote canals. I am thankful this is not my first or last experience with undeveloped living conditions. Through travel, my parents gave me a world perspective that most people are unfamiliar with. As a professor, I became even more aware of my students’ lack of understanding of the everyday struggles of most people on earth. That might have something to do with my ambition to bring real-world examples of every topic I discuss into the classroom and have a face for my students to associate with every devastation, situation, or livelihood I present.

To say the least, the ride is enlightening about the lives of these small-plot farmers and provides a glimpse at the living conditions of millions of people living along the waterways of Southeast Asia. As we snaked past mildewed huts on our way to the floating markets, our guide told us the story of the original Bangkok, or “Venice of the East.”

Bangkok’s history is deeply connected to the Chao Phraya River and the canals that connect it and bring life to all city corners. Even today, the canals and rivers are very important; I see all types of people, from monks to tourists and businessmen, riding on water taxis to travel all over the city. As I think about what the landscape would have looked like before the towers sprawled out, I can vividly understand why early visitors to Bangkok described it as the “Venice of the East.” The floating markets we explored are reminiscent of how people bought and sold goods and food in Bangkok.

The Damnoen Saduak Floating Market we visited is a very popular tourist destination and, on first appearance, would probably be written down in my book as a “tourist trap.” However, once we stepped down into another small flat boat for about two dollars, we better understood how these markets would have looked and operated before we, the tourists, invaded them. We had fun looking at the boats full of fruits and women making food and drinks right in their laps on these tiny little boats. You will not be disappointed if you look past the multitude of replicated souvenirs and focus on the people.

 It’s a place full of complete chaos, as the women hook your boat and pull you up to theirs to get a better look at what they are selling. As your boat and all the others continue to slide past and over each other, the atmosphere never settles but continues to be full of surprises. So even though it's touristy, if you have a little imagination, you will find the value in seeing a piece of history under the noise and color of a tourist trap.

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Bangkok: Golden & Reclining Buddha

Waking up in Bangkok an our second day in Thailand, I was anxious to get out and walk! I love nothing more than walking and exploring a city at my own pace, with no one to follow and no rules to uphold. Unlike the day before, our schedules had a little more leeway, starting with a morning free to do whatever we pleased.

On our drive up to the hotel the day before, we noticed that the urban clutter behind the hotel was full of commotion. This is where the day would start! And where the first words of advice came into play, our taxi driver from the airport to the hotel wasted no time warning us, “Don’t eat food from the street! Our bellies are different than your bellies!” Furthermore, as I asked about the famous street food and vendors, as characteristic to Thailand as elephants, a jewel of insight came forth, “everyone works in Thailand, there is no help from the government, everyone has to work.” There are no food licenses to obtain to be a street vendor in Thailand, which lends to the ever presence of food around every corner, from the mountains to the beaches. 

After seeing entire pigs’ heads, chickens, and fish cooked and served inches from the traffic and winding motorcycles, we had a great time exploring and hiding our shocked faces.  If there is open real estate on any Thai street, you can rest assured that a small mobile cart will be there soon. Quickly, unidentified contents will be fried and then served on rice to people crammed up under the newly erected open-air restaurant with seats crammed in. Walking through the alleys and smelling all the food (and seeing it) is so foreign; seeing people interact with each other and eat on the go and in these small makeshift restaurants was just as culturally enlightening as visiting the temples.

Spirit Houses are another interesting part of the cultural landscape in Thailand. These small shrines are everywhere, from the parking lots of most businesses to the front yards of most homes. This is another form of religious syncretism that plays on both Buddhist and Hindu beliefs.

When one o’clock hit, we were off on our tour to see more of this mega city and its golden temples. By the end of a two-week trip to Thailand, the Buddhas start to merge, but one statue worth visiting, and will certainly be one you remember, is the Reclining Buddha at Wat Po, the largest temple in Bangkok. Stretching 46 meters and covered in gold leaf, the Reclining Buddha is the most impressive statue I have seen on our Thai travels. My favorite part? The feet are decorated with a mother of pear to resemble toe prints (like fingerprints).

The other Buddha statue tied for first place in my book is the famous Golden Buddha at Wat Traimit, renowned as the giant solid gold statue in the world. Its past is one history and mystery buffs will love alike. Monks covered it in plaster and painted it to protect it from being stolen by the Burmese invaders in 1767.  The Burmese destroyed the city of Ayutthaya and left the unimpressive stucco Buddha there amid the ruble. For almost two hundred years, its true identity was masked as it moved from city to city and temple to temple. Eventually, in 1954, it was being moved from its un-glorious position outside when ropes broke, and a glittering gold shine could be seen under the cracks in the plaster. The gold is estimated to be worth around 250 million dollars, just in case you were wondering.

Once our tour was over, we were dropped off in Chinatown, where the streets seemed to be busier than the rest of Bangkok! We were instantly drawn to the windows, which were full of intriguing things to eat! Walking through Chinatown was one of my favorite parts of experiencing Bangkok. 

It is a unique part of the city with its own flavor. Our stomachs started to rumble and tempt us into eating the tempting street food, but thankfully, it wasn't long until we reached a storefront crammed with crabs, fish, and less recognizable things on ice that looked like "the real deal." The meal was perfect; the Chinese food was by far the best I have ever had. However, the pressing marketing for shark fin soup made the food dull in my mouth. 

the restaurant we ate at, recommended by the 

Princes for their noodles 

Visiting Thailand, I had been preparing to see animals being mistreated (tigers and elephants primarily – I will talk about this extensively later) and menu items that would cause outrage at home. This was the second day of the trip, and here it was. The flashes of sharks being brought up on boats, stripped of their fins, and then thrown back into the ocean to drown were swimming in front of my eyes. This is the reality of traveling and seeing things you are uncomfortable with; it is our responsibility to be educated on what “experiencing the local culture” is and what constitutes participating in destroying ecosystems and species. Being an educated traveler and knowing where to draw the line is crucial.  We should have chosen a different restaurant when I spotted the shark fin soup, and I will always regret the decision to stay. I have learned from this experience and my guilt over it; never again will I stay at a restaurant where the menu contains such cruelty. 

a picture as we drove by a restaurant in China Town with

shark fins proudly hung in the window 

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