Day 4 Colon Provence
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Start the Trans-isthmian day by exploring the Gatun Locks. Unlike the
Miraflores locks, these are less visited by tourists, and you will easily be able to have a front-row view of the massive tankers moving down the locks. It is a
completely different experience than the Miraflores locks and one I much
preferred.
Portobelo is a mysterious
location with a past rich with Spanish gold, vengeful pirates, and British overtakings. Located in Colon Province, Portobelo is in the northern part of the isthmus. Like many other great trading posts, it has a deep natural harbor,
the necessary characteristic for a town to store and guard Spanish treasure.
The gold that found its way to the safety of the many Spanish colonial
fortifications in Portobelo and the nearby Fort San Lorenzo came in great
quantities from Peru, Pizarro’s land of conquest.
The gold was too strong a pull, and the English continually rampaged the fortresses, most famously by Francis Drake, who set fire to San
Lorenzo in 1596. Portobelo itself was
most brutally attached by Henry Morgan, who, according to a Dutch historian,
killed or wounded basically the entire city. Fort San Lorenzo and the Spanish fortifications were declared a
UNESCO World Heritage Site. in 1980.
With great views of the Chagres River and the mossed-over forts, plan to spend time at both of these great sites to soak in the intensive colonial significance this stretch of coast had.
This side of the country is vastly different from the southern coast, home to the booming Panama City. Here on the northern side, things seem to be crumbling, much like the forts. However, within this tattered landscape, you find
incredible cultural treasures.
One that must be mentioned is the adored “Black
Christ” housed in the San Felipe church. The wood came from Spain and is over 300 hundred years old. While the effigy was not
originally black, smoke from burning incense and other air contaminates caused the carving to become dark brown. Not only is the “Black Christ” a significant symbol for Panama a yearly festival, on October 21st, draws
thousands of visitors to the church. After walking miles from as far away as
Panama City, about 50 miles, most pilgrims crawl on their hands and knees the
last mile to the church. 
Walking into the little church and past the tiny, weathered houses, you will not feel like a band of tourists filing into yet another church to take a few snapshots and move on. You are in the community of a people with a deep
reverence for this place. It is less of a tourist place and more of an
opportunity to put the camera down and walk in with respectful esteem.
If you have the option, riding the trans-isthmian train back to the
other side of the isthmus is necessary. The train allows you to see Lake Gatun (a body of water between the locks) and enjoy a relaxing ride back
home after a very long day.
Start the Trans-isthmian day by exploring the Gatun Locks. Unlike the
Miraflores locks, these are less visited by tourists, and you will easily be able to have a front-row view of the massive tankers moving down the locks. It is a
completely different experience than the Miraflores locks and one I much
preferred.
Portobelo is a mysterious
location with a past rich with Spanish gold, vengeful pirates, and British overtakings. Located in Colon Province, Portobelo is in the northern part of the isthmus. Like many other great trading posts, it has a deep natural harbor,
the necessary characteristic for a town to store and guard Spanish treasure.
The gold that found its way to the safety of the many Spanish colonial
fortifications in Portobelo and the nearby Fort San Lorenzo came in great
quantities from Peru, Pizarro’s land of conquest.
The gold was too strong a pull, and the English continually rampaged the fortresses, most famously by Francis Drake, who set fire to San
Lorenzo in 1596. Portobelo itself was
most brutally attached by Henry Morgan, who, according to a Dutch historian,
killed or wounded basically the entire city. Fort San Lorenzo and the Spanish fortifications were declared a
UNESCO World Heritage Site. in 1980.
With great views of the Chagres River and the mossed-over forts, plan to spend time at both of these great sites to soak in the intensive colonial significance this stretch of coast had.
This side of the country is vastly different from the southern coast, home to the booming Panama City. Here on the northern side, things seem to be crumbling, much like the forts. However, within this tattered landscape, you find
incredible cultural treasures.
One that must be mentioned is the adored “Black
Christ” housed in the San Felipe church. The wood came from Spain and is over 300 hundred years old. While the effigy was not
originally black, smoke from burning incense and other air contaminates caused the carving to become dark brown. Not only is the “Black Christ” a significant symbol for Panama a yearly festival, on October 21st, draws
thousands of visitors to the church. After walking miles from as far away as
Panama City, about 50 miles, most pilgrims crawl on their hands and knees the
last mile to the church.
Walking into the little church and past the tiny, weathered houses, you will not feel like a band of tourists filing into yet another church to take a few snapshots and move on. You are in the community of a people with a deep
reverence for this place. It is less of a tourist place and more of an
opportunity to put the camera down and walk in with respectful esteem.
If you have the option, riding the trans-isthmian train back to the
other side of the isthmus is necessary. The train allows you to see Lake Gatun (a body of water between the locks) and enjoy a relaxing ride back
home after a very long day.
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